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7.  HEAT UP A HOUSEHOLD IRON ON THE COTTON SETTING (ALL THE WAY UP).  NO STEAM NEEDED.  USUALLY THERE IS AN INDICATOR THAT TELLS YOU IT HAS REACHED FULL TEMP (ASK YOUR WIFE).  GET SOME SCRAP WOOD AND SET THE BOARD ON IT, COPPER SIDE UP.  MAKE SURE THE BOARD IS STILL ABSOLUTELY CLEAN FROM STEP 6.  NO DUST AT ALL.  CUT OUT THE CIRCUIT FROM THE GLOSSY PAPER, DO NOT TOUCH ANY OF THE PRINTED PART OR THAT PART WILL NOT STICK TO THE COPPER.  PLACE THE PAPER, PRINTED SIDE DOWN, ON THE COPPER BOARD.  CHECK ONE LAST TIME THAT DUST HAS NOT LANDED ON EITHER THE PAPER OR THE COPPER.  CAREFULLY PLACE THE HOT IRON ON THE STACK OF PAPER AND COPPER.  PRESS DOWN WITH ALL OF YOUR WEIGHT.  AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS, START MOVING THE IRON AROUND AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE HEATED EVERY NOOK AND CORNER OF THE BOARD.  YOU NEED TO PRESS QUITE HARD.  AFTER ABOUT 2 TOTAL MINUTES, REMOVE THE IRON FROM THE BOARD.  THE BOARD WILL LOOK LIKE THE PICTURE BELOW; THE PAPER WILL BE SLIGHTLY BROWN.  THE BOARD IS TOO HOT TO HANDLE, LET IT COOL.

8.  FILL A SMALL TRAY WITH HOT SOAPY WATER (DISH SOAP IS FINE).  PLACE THE BOARD, PAPER INTACT, INTO THE TRAY.  LEAVE IT ALONE FOR 10 MINUTES.  YOU WILL SEE THE PAPER BECOMING SOAKED AND DISSOLVING AWAY. 

9.  CAREFULLY, PEEL AWAY THE PAPER FROM THE BOARD.  TAKE YOUR TIME, YOU DO NOT WANT TO REMOVE ANY OF THE PRINTING WITH THE PAPER.  SMALL AMOUNTS OF PAPER WILL REMAIN ON THE BOARD.  THESE CAN BE REMOVED BY RUBBING YOU FINGER GENTLY AROUND THEM.  IF A SMALL AMOUNT OF INK COMES OFF THE BOARD, DON'T PANIC, YOU WILL FIX THIS LATER.  IF A LARGE AMOUNT COMES OFF, YOU WILL NEED TO CLEAN THE BOARD AND IRON ON A NEW CIRCUIT.  99% OF THE TIME YOU WILL GET IT RIGHT ON THE FIRST TRY.  USUALLY FAILURES ARE FROM AN UNCLEAN BOARD, OR NOT IRONING LONG ENOUGH. 

10.  NOW YOU NEED TO DRILL OUT THE HOLES IN THE BOARD.  YOU NEED A DRILL PRESS OR A DREMEL STAND TO DO THIS.  THERE IS NO WAY YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A HAND DRILL, YOU WILL BREAK THE BIT AND RUIN THE BOARD.  YOU NEED GOOD LIGHTING FOR THIS EXACTING WORK.  SAFETY GLASSES ARE A MUST, BECAUSE THE BIT IS TINY.  ANY PC BOARD DRILL BIT IS FINE.  THEY HAVE PLASTIC COLLARS ON THEM BECAUSE OTHERWISE THEY WOULD BE TOO SMALL TO FIT THE CHUCK.  USE A REGULAR 1/8" DRILL BIT TO MAKE THE 2 HOLES ALONGSIDE THE DB9 CONNECTOR.  TAKE YOUR TIME, THE GENERAL RULE IS: YOU ALWAYS FORGET ONE HOLE.

10.    FIX ANY SMALL SPOTS WHERE THE INK CAME OFF OR WHERE YOU SCRATCHED THE BOARD, WITH A REGULAR "SHARPIE" MARKER.  YEP, THE ONE YOU USE ON YOUR CD-R DISCS.  NO NEED TO BUY A $6 "INK RESIST" PEN.  ON SMALL BOARDS, YOU CAN JUST DRAW THE WHOLE CIRCUIT, AND AVOID THE IRONING ALTOGETHER.   TO ETCH THE BOARD, YOU CAN USE HYDROX, OR FERRIC CHLORIDE.  I PREFER THE LATTER.  BOTH ARE DANGEROUS TO EYES AND SKIN.  FERRIC CHLORIDE WILL DESTROY A STAINLESS STEEL SINK IN AN INSTANT.  USE THE UTILITY TUB IN THE BASEMENT, OR DO THIS OUTSIDE, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.  THE WARMER THE SOLUTION, THE FASTER IT WORKS.  USE SOME GOOD, CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES, THEY ARE USUALLY BLACK, NOT YELLOW.  SAFETY GLASSES HERE TOO.  TO ETCH, YOU JUST LAY THE BOARD IN A DEEP, PLASTIC TRAY, COPPER SIDE UP.  NOW COVER THE BOARD COMPLETELY WITH FERRIC CHLORIDE.  "SWISH" AROUND THE SOLUTION AND CHECK EVERY 5 MINUTES.  DEPENDING ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE SOLUTION, IT TAKES ABOUT 20 MINUTES.  WHEN ALL OF THE COPPER HAS DISSOLVED, AND JUST THE PRINTING REMAINS, YOU ARE DONE.  DO NOT LET IT SIT LONGER THAN NECESSARY. SHINE A LIGHT THROUGH THE BOARD TO MAKE SURE ALL OF THE COPPER HAS DISSOLVED.  IF SOME REMAINS, JUST PUT IT BACK IN THE TRAY.  RINSE WITH COLD WATER TO END THE ETCHING.

BEFORE

ABOVE YOU SEE MY FANCY ETCHING TANK.  CONSISTING OF A 5 GALLON BUCKET FULL OF REGULAR TAP WATER.  AN AQUARIUM HEATER MAKES THIS WATER VERY HOT.  INSIDE THE WATER IS A GLASS BOX GLUED TOGETHER WITH SILICONE RUBBER.  ALONG THE BOTTOM OF THE BOX IS AN AQUARIUM "BUBBLE WALL" ROD.  THIS IS HOOKED UP TO AN AQUARIUM AIR PUMP.  THE BOX IS FILLED WITH FERRIC CHLORIDE.  THE AIR PUMP AGITATES THE SOLUTION.  THIS CRAZY SET UP ETCHES A BOARD IN UNDER 5 MINUTES, AND USES VERY LITTLE SOLUTION.  YOU JUST DIP THE BOARD IN AND OUT TO CHECK ON IT.  I USE A PIECE OF PLASTIC COATED WIRE HOOKED ON TO THE BOARD.

AFTER

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